Explore the climb

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

WASHINGTON / NORTH AMERICA

The glaciated jewel of the Pacific Northwest - Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) - sits alone, rising over 13,000 ft from the forests that surround its massive icey flanks. Climb an iconic alpine line up the Kautz Ice Cliff and onto the sprawling upper Nisqually Glacier.

Explore the climb

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

WASHINGTON / NORTH AMERICA

The glaciated jewel of the Pacific Northwest - Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) - sits alone, rising over 13,000 ft from the forests that surround its massive icey flanks. Climb an iconic alpine line up the Kautz Ice Cliff and onto the sprawling upper Nisqually Glacier.

Explore the climb

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

WASHINGTON / NORTH AMERICA

The glaciated jewel of the Pacific Northwest - Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) - sits alone, rising over 13,000 ft from the forests that surround its massive icey flanks. Climb an iconic alpine line up the Kautz Ice Cliff and onto the sprawling upper Nisqually Glacier.

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

This adventure begins at the popular Paradise area in Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) National Park. We will quickly lose the crowds as we bear west and decend onto the massive Nisqually Glacier. After traversing the glacier and gaining a prominent ridge we will arrive at our first camp, The Castle. The following morning we will move camp higher to Camp Hazard (named after Hazard Stevens, who completed the first documented summit of the mountain in 1870). Here we will enjoy the stunning views looking south at Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and all the way into Oregon on a clear day where we can spot Mt. Hood and ocassionalty Mt. Jefferson. We will rise for an alpine start and enjoy fantastic ice climbing followed by glacier travel to the summit. This climb feels truly remote as it sees far less traffic than many of the other routes on the mountain. It is also a great opportunity to develope ice climbing skills as well as glacier travel skills. Climbing the Kautz is an adventure you won't soon forget!

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Not sure where to start?

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

This adventure begins at the popular Paradise area in Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) National Park. We will quickly lose the crowds as we bear west and decend onto the massive Nisqually Glacier. After traversing the glacier and gaining a prominent ridge we will arrive at our first camp, The Castle. The following morning we will move camp higher to Camp Hazard (named after Hazard Stevens, who completed the first documented summit of the mountain in 1870). Here we will enjoy the stunning views looking south at Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and all the way into Oregon on a clear day where we can spot Mt. Hood and ocassionalty Mt. Jefferson. We will rise for an alpine start and enjoy fantastic ice climbing followed by glacier travel to the summit. This climb feels truly remote as it sees far less traffic than many of the other routes on the mountain. It is also a great opportunity to develope ice climbing skills as well as glacier travel skills. Climbing the Kautz is an adventure you won't soon forget!

Mt. Rainier Kautz

Duration

4-days

Elevation

14,410 ft

Skill Level

Intermediate

This adventure begins at the popular Paradise area in Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) National Park. We will quickly lose the crowds as we bear west and decend onto the massive Nisqually Glacier. After traversing the glacier and gaining a prominent ridge we will arrive at our first camp, The Castle. The following morning we will move camp higher to Camp Hazard (named after Hazard Stevens, who completed the first documented summit of the mountain in 1870). Here we will enjoy the stunning views looking south at Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and all the way into Oregon on a clear day where we can spot Mt. Hood and ocassionalty Mt. Jefferson. We will rise for an alpine start and enjoy fantastic ice climbing followed by glacier travel to the summit. This climb feels truly remote as it sees far less traffic than many of the other routes on the mountain. It is also a great opportunity to develope ice climbing skills as well as glacier travel skills. Climbing the Kautz is an adventure you won't soon forget!

Overview

What your adventure involves

What your Adventure involves

Challenging classic
Combines glacier travel and alpine ice for a technical ascent.
Remote adventure
Smaller teams and big views on a less-crowded route.
Skill development
Practice steep snow and ice climbing techniques.
Season
June – August (best June – July).

details

Everything you need to know before you go

If you need to rent crampons, ice axe, harness, or helmet, you can let us know when you book!

Included

Lightweight dinners and breakfasts

Tents

Rope

Anchors

cooking equipment

Expert Guides

permits

NOT Included

transportation

personal clothing/boots

snacks/lunches

Technical rentals - available upon request

Preparation

Fitness

Climbers should be conditioned for long alpine days with a 40 lb pack. Cardio and strength training support the endurance required for sustained climbing at altitude. If you're unsure about your fitness for this climb, reach out to schedule a free training consultation with us!

Climbers should be conditioned for long alpine days with a 40 lb pack. Cardio and strength training support the endurance required for sustained climbing at altitude. If you're unsure about your fitness for this climb, reach out to schedule a free training consultation with us!

techincal

Previous experience with crampons, self-arrest, and basic glacier travel is required. Guides will refine steep snow and ice climbing skills. Be prepared for a just under 1,000 ft of ice climbing depending on the conditions. Generally, easier conditions in May and June and harder conditions in July and August.

Previous experience with crampons, self-arrest, and basic glacier travel is required. Guides will refine steep snow and ice climbing skills. Be prepared for a just under 1,000 ft of ice climbing depending on the conditions. Generally, easier conditions in May and June and harder conditions in July and August.

Altitude

At 14,410 ft, altitude effects can occur. A gradual approach and proper hydration help ensure a strong summit day. Normally, climbers will feel the altitude beginning above 10'000 ft. While minor altitude ailments may occur (headache, shortness of breath, lower engery) severe altitude illnesses are very uncommon. Your guides will work with you to ensure a safe and enjoyable climb!

At 14,410 ft, altitude effects can occur. A gradual approach and proper hydration help ensure a strong summit day. Normally, climbers will feel the altitude beginning above 10'000 ft. While minor altitude ailments may occur (headache, shortness of breath, lower engery) severe altitude illnesses are very uncommon. Your guides will work with you to ensure a safe and enjoyable climb!

Itinerary

Trip Itinerary

DAY 1
Across the Lower Nisqually to the Castle Camp
We begin in the Paradise parking lot and will be on trails for the first hour. We will then cross the lower Nisqually glacier, gain the Wilson glacier, ultimately arriving at The Castle to make our first camp(9,600 ft)
DAY 2
The Castle to Camp Hazard
We will move our camp higher up the mountain, climbing steep snow and over some rock in late season to Camp Hazard (11,100 ft) where we will have an early dinner and get some rest before our summit atempt.
DAY 3
Summit Day
We get an early start and go for the summit. After crossing the rock step and accessing the Kautz ice cliffs, we tackle 1,000 feet of steep snow and ice climbing to the upper Nisqually glacier. We will pass under Point Success and arrive at the West Crater rim and the summit of majestic Mt. Rainier (Tahoma). The day is far from over, as we then desecend the route back to Camp Hazard, eat a well earned meal, and drift off to sleep.
DAY 4
Descend to Trailhead
We enjoy a final sunrise and breakfast before breaking down camp and descending back to the trailhead.

FAQ's

FAQ's

Do I need prior glacier experience?

Yes. Previous experience climbing on glaciers with crampons and an ice axe is required to sign up for this trip. Reach out to our team with questions on experience level.

How heavy is my pack?

Plan for 35–45 lb including personal gear, shared group items, water, and food to camp. Summit day pack will be lighter at around 15 pounds as we don't carry our camping equipment with us for the summit push.

What crampons do I need?

Sharp crampons with vertical front points work best for this ice climbing route. Check our gear list for the current best model.

What if the weather turns?

Safety first. Guides may adjust route, timing, or turn around. A summit is never guaranteed; a great experience is.

Can I rent technical gear?

Yes—crampons, ice tools, harness, helmet are available. Request during booking.

What ice axes do I need?

You'll want two technical ice climbing tools for climbing the Kautz. Check the gear list for details. Rentals are available.

Do I need prior glacier experience?

Yes. Previous experience climbing on glaciers with crampons and an ice axe is required to sign up for this trip. Reach out to our team with questions on experience level.

How heavy is my pack?

Plan for 35–45 lb including personal gear, shared group items, water, and food to camp. Summit day pack will be lighter at around 15 pounds as we don't carry our camping equipment with us for the summit push.

What crampons do I need?

Sharp crampons with vertical front points work best for this ice climbing route. Check our gear list for the current best model.

What if the weather turns?

Safety first. Guides may adjust route, timing, or turn around. A summit is never guaranteed; a great experience is.

Can I rent technical gear?

Yes—crampons, ice tools, harness, helmet are available. Request during booking.

What ice axes do I need?

You'll want two technical ice climbing tools for climbing the Kautz. Check the gear list for details. Rentals are available.

Do I need prior glacier experience?

Yes. Previous experience climbing on glaciers with crampons and an ice axe is required to sign up for this trip. Reach out to our team with questions on experience level.

How heavy is my pack?

Plan for 35–45 lb including personal gear, shared group items, water, and food to camp. Summit day pack will be lighter at around 15 pounds as we don't carry our camping equipment with us for the summit push.

What crampons do I need?

Sharp crampons with vertical front points work best for this ice climbing route. Check our gear list for the current best model.

What if the weather turns?

Safety first. Guides may adjust route, timing, or turn around. A summit is never guaranteed; a great experience is.

Can I rent technical gear?

Yes—crampons, ice tools, harness, helmet are available. Request during booking.

What ice axes do I need?

You'll want two technical ice climbing tools for climbing the Kautz. Check the gear list for details. Rentals are available.

Gear List

Gear List

Gear required to bring up on the mountain given the conditions may vary trip to trip. Your guide will help you decide what gear to bring or leave behind during the gear-check. If you need to rent crampons, ice axe, harness, or helmet, you can let us know when you book!

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Ready to take the leap?

Book Your Next Adventure

Schedule a free consultation call so we can learn more about you and craft a trip that fits your experience and goals.

Ready to take the leap?

Book Your Next Adventure

Schedule a free consultation call so we can learn more about you and craft a trip that fits your experience and goals.

Ready to take the leap?

Book Your Next Adventure

Schedule a free consultation call so we can learn more about you and craft a trip that fits your experience and goals.