Overview
World's Most Beautiful Mountain
Summit Alpamayo (5,947 m), UNESCO-designated as the most beautiful mountain in the world, with its iconic fluted ice pyramid rising above the Cordillera Blanca.
French Direct Route
Climb 8-10 pitches of sustained 60-degree ice straight up the spectacular southwest face—one of the most aesthetic and committing alpine routes in South America.
Stunning Surroundings
Trek through one of Peru's most beautiful valleys with views of Taulliraju, Artesonraju, and countless 6,000-meter peaks surrounding you.
Technical Ice Climbing
Enoy ice climbing in an absolutely incredibly alpine environment.
Smart Acclimatization & Small Teams
Our 13-day itinerary includes rest days and contingency time for weather, while our 2:1 guide ratio ensures personalized instruction and safety throughout this committing climb.
details
Everything you need to know before you go
Included
All lodging during the itinerary, including lodging in Huaraz
All meals while on the mountains
Group camping and climbing equipment
All permits (Huascarán National Park fees)
In-country transportation
Guiding fees
NOT Included
Flights to/from Lima, Peru
Additional nights in hotels outside of the itinerary dates
Visas (if required)
Dinners and lunches in Huaraz
Immunizations required for travel to Peru
Tips for guides or local porters
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Skyline Mountain Guides or its agents are not included.
Preparation
Fitness
techincal
Altitude
Itinerary
Trip Itinerary
DAY 1
Arrive Lima, Transfer to Huaraz
Arrive at Lima's Jorge Chávez International Airport where you'll meet the rest of the team. Transfer to the bus terminal for the scenic 8-hour drive north along the Pacific Coast Highway, then inland up the Río Fortaleza valley, crossing the high pass near Conococha before descending into the upper Río Santa valley. Arrive in Huaraz (3,050 m / 10,000 ft) in the evening. Check into our hotel, meet your guide for a team dinner and expedition briefing. Rest and begin acclimatizing to altitude.
DAY 2
Acclimatization Day in Huaraz
Rest day in Huaraz for initial acclimatization and expedition preparation. Morning gear check with your guide—review personal equipment, organize group gear, address any last-minute needs. Afternoon acclimatization hike to nearby viewpoints or Laguna Churup (4,450 m) if the team is feeling strong. Visit local markets, pick up final snacks or supplies. Evening briefing covering detailed itinerary, mountain conditions, and final preparations. Early dinner and rest before tomorrow's early start.
DAY 3
Drive to Cashapampa, Trek to Llamacorral Camp (3,760 m)
Early morning departure from Huaraz. Drive 2.5-3 hours north through Caraz to the trailhead at Cashapampa (2,900 m) in the Santa Cruz Valley. Meet pack animals (burros) who will carry group gear and most personal items. Begin trekking up the beautiful Santa Cruz Valley, gradually gaining elevation through agricultural lands, then into forested sections with increasingly dramatic mountain views. Hike 4-5 hours to Llamacorral Camp (3,760 m / 12,336 ft), a grassy meadow surrounded by towering peaks. Establish camp, organize gear, enjoy sunset views. Dinner and early rest.
DAY 4
Trek to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m)
Continue trekking deeper into the Santa Cruz Valley with increasingly spectacular views. Pass beautiful turquoise lakes (Jatuncocha) with Taulliraju's striking spires rising above. The trail winds through alpine terrain into the Arhuaycocha Valley, turning toward Alpamayo's hanging valley. Hike 5-6 hours to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m / 14,108 ft), situated in a stunning cirque with direct views of Alpamayo's southwest face. Establish camp, settle in, hydrate and rest. Afternoon briefing and skill review session covering the route, camp-to-camp plan, and technical systems. Dinner with views of Alpamayo catching sunset light.
DAY 5
Rest and Skills Day at Base Camp
Full acclimatization and skills day at base camp. Morning session reviewing or teaching essential techniques: crampon and ice axe use, steep ice climbing movement, rope team systems for the route, rappel systems and transitions. Practice on nearby terrain if conditions allow. Afternoon rest and hydration. Discuss summit day plan, timing, and logistics in detail. Pack and organize gear for tomorrow's move to moraine camp. Early dinner and rest.
DAY 6
Move to Moraine Camp (4,900 m)
Carry loads to moraine camp—a shorter but steeper day. Hike 2-3 hours up through scree trails and granite slabs, gaining 600 meters to Moraine Camp (4,900 m / 16,076 ft) positioned just below the glacier. This higher camp aids acclimatization and positions us for tomorrow's push to high camp. Settle into camp and rest. Light afternoon reviewing tomorrow's glacier approach and crevasse navigation. Early dinner and sleep.
DAY 7
Climb to High Camp at the Col (5,400 m)
The most challenging acclimatization day. Rope up and ascend onto the glacier, navigating crevasses as we climb toward the Alpamayo-Quitaraju col. The upper section steepens significantly—the final 50-100 meters to the col involves 60-70 degree ice (or hard snow depending on conditions). This pitch serves as excellent preparation for summit day. Top out on the col and descend slightly to High Camp (5,400 m / 17,717 ft), a spectacular camp on the snow plateau with Alpamayo's southwest face rising directly above. Establish tents, hydrate, prepare gear for summit attempt. Discuss detailed summit day plan. Early dinner, lay out summit gear, rest before alpine start.
DAY 8
Summit Day: Alpamayo (5,947 m)
Alpine start. Light breakfast, final gear check, rope up and begin climbing by headlamp. Move across the glacier for 1-1.5 hours to reach the bergschrund at the base of the southwest face. Navigate the bergschrund (often straightforward) and begin the French Direct Route. Climb 8-10 full rope lengths (60m pitches) of sustained 60-degree ice up the prominent flute system. After 5-7 hours of climbing, top out on the narrow summit ridge. Take in 360-degree views of the Cordillera Blanca—Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Quitaraju, and countless peaks stretching to the horizon. Descend via rappels down the route. Celebrate, rest, rehydrate. Depending on team energy, either rest at high camp or descend to moraine camp.
DAY 9
Descend to Base Camp (Contingency Day 1)
Descend from high camp back down to base camp, retracing our steps down the steep col section, across the glacier, and down to moraine camp, then onward to base camp. Celebrate the climb, organize gear, rest. This day also serves as Contingency Day 1—if weather or conditions prevented a summit attempt on Day 8, we have this day available for another attempt.
DAY 10
Base Camp to Llamacorral (Contingency Day 2)
Descend from base camp back down the Arhuaycocha Valley and Santa Cruz Valley to Llamacorral camp. Enjoy increasingly lush terrain and warmer temperatures as we lose elevation. This descent typically takes 4-5 hours. Celebrate the expedition with the team. This day also serves as Contingency Day 2 for weather delays or additional summit attempts.
DAY 11
Trek to Cashapampa, Return to Huaraz
Final morning in the mountains. Hike out from Llamacorral to Cashapampa trailhead (4-5 hours), meeting our transportation. Drive back to Huaraz. Check into hotel, take hot showers, organize gear. Celebratory team dinner in town reflecting on the expedition. Rest.
DAY 12
Rest Day in Huaraz (Contingency Day 3)
Full rest and recovery day in Huaraz. Explore the town, visit markets, or simply relax at the hotel. This day serves as additional contingency time if weather or conditions caused delays earlier in the expedition. Evening celebration dinner with the team.
DAY 13
Transfer to Lima, Depart
Morning transfer from Huaraz to Lima via bus (8 hours). Arrive in Lima with time to catch evening international flights home. If you're extending your stay in Peru, we can arrange additional nights in Lima or Cusco for Machu Picchu visits.
FAQ's
FAQ's
Gear List
Gear List
Gear required to bring up on the mountain given the conditions may vary trip to trip. Your guide will help you decide what gear to bring or leave behind during the gear-check. If you need to rent crampons, ice axe, harness, or helmet, you can let us know when you book!
